A. Climbing Rules:

(Effective 6 August 1981)

In exercise of the powers conferred by Government of Nepal, Nepal Mountaineering Association has made the following rules to be observed for the climbing of the peaks of Nepal Himalaya listed in Appendix 1. These rules will come into force at once.

Definition: Where applicable definitions for these rules will be the same as those for Government of Nepal Mountaineering Expedition Regulations 1979 and its first Amendment 1984.

1. Permission:-
Any person or mountaineering team desirous of climbing the peak listed in Appendix 1 must receive permission from Nepal Mountaineering Association. Application to climb the peak must be made in the form as prescribed in Appendix 2. Permission to climb the peaks will be granted for a period of one month only. Permission may be extended, if necessary, for another period of two weeks. The period of permission granted relates to time spent for climbing above the base camp. The trek to and from the base camp is not included. Application for climbing permit may be made at any time by the concerned mountaineering team. Permit will be granted on a first come first serve basis. Each climbing party will be given a permit as prescribed in Appendix 3. The right to give permission to another party for climbing the same peak during the same period is reserved by Nepal Mountaineering Association. Nepal Mountaineering Association will recommend to Immigration Office of Government of Nepal for obtaining trekking permit of the area to the team members.

2. Payment of fee:-
The climbing fee structure of NMA Trekking Peaks listed in Appendix 1 is as follows:

Fee Structure for Group "A" NMA Peaks
Royalty for up to seven members: USD 500.00
Royalty for each additional member up to 12 persons: USD 100.00

Fee Structure for Group "B" NMA Peaks
Royalty for 1-4 members: USD 350.00
Royalty for 5-8 members: USD 350.00 + USD 40.00 per person
Royalty for 9-12 members: USD 510.00 + USD 25.00 per person
Note: Maximum number of members in one team is 12.

For extending permission, an additional 25% charge of the total amount of the initial fee will be made for each extra week. The leader or climbing member of the team must collect the permit in person from Nepal Mountaineering Association. The maximum number of persons in a group is 12.

3. Refund:-

In the event of cancellation of the permission by NMA or the failure of the expedition to materialize due to some other reasons, the feels already paid will not be refunded. Every individual or party granted a climbing permit shall be accompanied by a Sirdar/Guide, who must be registered with NMA.

4. Functions and duties of the Sirdar/Guide :-

To assist the climbing party with recruitment of porters and other staff, control of porters, local purchase of food, etc. And to solve any problem that may arise to the best of his ability.
To report to Nepal Mountaineering Association in case the party spends more than the prescribed time limit in the mountain.
To ensure that the climbers comply with the terms of their permit.
To ensure that the climbers (trekkers) follow the specified route.
To ensure proper disposal of waste materials.
To report to NMA any infringement of the climbing rules
To report any serious incidents to the nearest police post.

The Sirdar Guide shall be employed from the day the climbing party begins the trek until the trek is finished. The Sirdar/Guide will be provided with the following facilities:-
Minimum daily allowance to be paid as per the rules of His Majesty's Government, Ministry of Culture, Tourism, and Civil Aviation.
Food and tent accommodation.
Climbing equipment and necessary clothing if required to go above the base camp.

Insurance: - All employees going above the base camp must be insured for personal accident to the value of Rs. 200,000.00.

Nomination of representative in Kathmandu:-

Each party granted climbing permit will nominate representative in Kathmandu to act as liaison between NMA and the climbing party. The representative may be an individual or an organization registered with NMA. The nominated representative will be responsible for making necessary arrangements for the climbing party in case of accidents or any other unforeseen circumstances.

Submission of report:-

On the conclusion of the climb and on return to Kathmandu, the party will submit a report to NMA in the form prescribed in Appendix 4.

Power to cancel the permit:-

NMA may cancel or withdraw the climbing permit any time with or without showing any particular reason.

Non-compliance of the regulation:-

Where any trekking party acts in contravention to the climbing permit or indulges in acts of unsocial or outrageous behavior contrary to the customs and culture of the people of Nepal, NMA may recommend to Government of Nepal to take necessary measures in accordance with Article 37 of Mountaineering Regulations 1979.

Protection of Environment:-

Base camp and other camps will be left perfectly clean at the conclusion of the climb. No foreign materials, such as fix rope, pitons, etc shall be left on the mountain. All rubbish and waste material must be burnt or otherwise disposed off.

Revision of the Regulations: - any article of this regulation may be revised or amended by NMA with prior permission of Government of Nepal.

We recommend you bring the following essential items of clothing and gear, but it is important that you don't bring a surplus. Please remember that most international and domestic flights have a weight allowance of 20 kg. If you arrive with huge amounts of equipment, excess baggage and extra porter charges will be your responsibility.

Mactrek and Expedition will provide all group gear, including good quality tents and camping/kitchen equipment.

Please let us know if you like to rent or purchase particular items of personal gear and clothing. Most of the climbing gears can be found in equipment shop in Kathmandu.

Here some useful personal gears check list given below:

1. Trekking and climbing boots
2. Crampons
3. Harness
4. Ice axe
5. Karabiners
6. Snow bars
7. Ice screws
8. Rock pegs
9. Crash hat
10. Rucksack
11. Day bag
12. Kit bag
13. Ascenders and Descenders
14. T-shirts
15. Long sleeved cotton/woolen shirts
16. Long cotton hiking shorts
17. Fleece/wool for climbing
18. Warm climbing trousers
19. Lightweight fleece
20. Wool long underwear/Thermal under wear (top to bottom)
21. Down jacket/trousers/vest
22. Water proof climbing jacket
23. Good down sleeping bag
24. Sleeping pad (karrimat) or thermarest
25. Light cotton athletic socks and wool climbing socks
26. Lightweight thermal/insulated ski gloves
27. Head torch/batteries/bulbs
28. Climbing sunglasses
29. Sun Screen/Lotion/leap cream
30. Sun hat
31. Pair gaiters
32. Light weight sandals
33. Water bottle

Download Application Form for Peak Climbing: