Kusum Kanguru, 6,369 meters, dominating the southern end of Charpati Himal separates the valley of the Dudh Koshi from the upper reaches of Hinku Drangka. This peak is a complex, triple summit mountain having at least five major ridges and faces. The north face of the main summit is the most spectacular one. The name Kusum Kanguru comes from Tibetan meaning Three Snow White Gods. This peak is one of the most difficult trekking peaks to climb and was first ascended in the autumn of 1979 by a Japanese team.
Regarded as technically very challenging on all possible routes, Kusum Kanguru is an impressive rock and ice peak which forms the border between the Dudhkosi in the south and Hinku Valley to the north. This climb is suggested only for participants who have enough alpine mountaineering experience.
The approach to the South East Face is from the Hinku valley side. From Lukla the base camp can be reached in 5 days. The ascent route to the main summit is through the South East Face. With a base camp at 4360m, two or three high camps are required to complete the climb.
